ВАТЕР ПАЙЕЛ Карибы(Waters Pilot Сaribean)

Times for which our star charts are good: Note: Hold this book over your headwith the east arrow pointing to the east (normally your bow).

Ihe islands of the Caribbean sweep southward in a huge arc,making a bridge of giant-sized stepping stones from Florida to Venezuela. On theeastern or windward side, the Atlantic Ocean pounds the shore. On the leewardside, the calmer Caribbean Sea lies tranquil, sparkling in the sun.

The Windward Islands are at the southern end of this chain,the last links before Trinidad and South America. They were called the Windwardsby the British, because to get there from many of their other possessions, youhad to beat to windward.

They lie almost across the easterly trade winds, which makesfor easy passages north or south and they are just far enough apart to allow forsome wild romps in the open ocean before tucking into the calm of the next leeshore.

The four main Windward Islands ~ Martinique, St. Lucia, St.Vincent, and Grenada ~ are lush and richly tropical, with high mountains thattrap the clouds and produce dense green vegetation. Here you can find excellentexamples of tropical rainforest, easily accessible to those who hike.

Between St. Vincent and Grenada lie the Grenadines ~ a hostof smaller islands, some with hills of a thousand feet, others no more than areef-enclosed sand cay sprouting a few palms. Drier than the large islands, theyall have perfect white beaches, crystal clear waters and colorful reefs.

Over 2000 years ago the islands were colonized by theKalinargo, an oriental looking people who were great navigators, artists andsportsmen. Those in residence when Columbus arrived were a warlike tribe whoColumbus called Caribs. They had recently displaced the Arawaks, a more artisticand peaceful tribe. The Kalinargo resisted the Europeans and refused to beslaves. In Grenada, the northern town of Sauteurs marks the spot where the lastof the Grenada Kalinargo leapt to their deaths rather than be taken captive.They held out the longest in St. Vincent, where the steep terrain madecolonization harder. Even here they were eventually driven out by European colonists. Today, just ahandful of Kalinargo remain in the Windwards, on the north end of St. Vincent ina village called Fancy.

Years of colonization followed and the Windward Islands werefought over by the British and French. Plantation owners became rich from theproduction of sugar and slaves were brought from Africa to work in the fields.After slavery was abolished, many former slaves showed a healthy disinclinationto work for their previous masters, preferring to eke out a living fishing andfarming. The planters imported East Indian laborers to take over the field work.

Today, the intermingling of the races has produced aninteresting blend of people who live in harmony together.

During its colonial history, Martinique, the northernmostWindward Island, was nearly always in French hands. Today, it is still part ofFrance, and therefore a member of the European Community. The language andambiance are French and, while not essential, it certainly helps to speak thelanguage.

St. Lucia, St. Vincent, and Grenada are now all independentnations with a British tradition. Each has its own laws and customs.

The main industries throughout this area are tourism, farmingand fishing and, more recently, international company services. While all theislands produce some rum, Martinique has a large industry producing their ownspecially flavored product, "Rhum Agricole." Farmers in Martiniquealso grow excellent pineapples. Grenada has traditionally grown nutmeg and cocoa.St. Lucia and St. Vincent have been heavily involved in bananas, but withprotective arrangements with Europe ending, farmers are looking for alternativeproducts, and tropical flowers seem to be an increasing market.

Tourism is probably responsible for much of the rise in thestandard of living that has been visible over the last 30 years. Yachtingtourism has become a significant factor in the economy of many of these islands,and has encouraged the growth of restaurants, shops, handicraft artisans, andsupport services. The dollars you spend in the islands really do help the localeconomy.

The Windwards are a joy for the sailor. Good trade windsensure exhilarating passages and delightful anchorages abound. The weather ispleasant year round, the people are friendly, and there are few annoyingregulations. You are free to sail and enjoy some of the most beautiful islandson earth.

In Martinique the currency is the Euro, currently running alittle more than the $US. You get the best rates at the change places in Fort deFrance and Anse Mitan, rather than at the banks. Some tourist shops offer up toa 20% discount on purchases made with traveler's checks.

In the other islands the currency is the Eastern Caribbean (EC)dollar at a fixed bank rate of 2.67 to one US dollar. This is usually a slightlybetter rate than that offered by shops or taxi drivers, though most people arewilling to take US dollars. You get a lot of EC dollars for the US ones, butthey are much more quickly spent. Oh well, "EC come, EC go," or asJimmy Buffet said: "It's much more fun to spend money with pictures offlowers and palm trees on it than money with pictures of green old men."Spend it all or change it back locally ~ bankers just laugh if you try to changeit back home.

Credit cards are now very widely accepted, and they are muchmore convenient and much safer than sporting big wads of cash.

In Martinique the language is French, and though anincreasing number of people speak English, it is by no means a bilingual society.Some knowledge of French is very helpful. A new book is also of great help. Itis called French for Cruisers by Kathy Parsons, and unlike most phrasebooks, it is thoroughly researched, beautifully laid out and comprehensive- it even includes boat and engine parts.

In the other Windwards, the official language is English,though the dialect can be hard to understand when locals talk fast amongthemselves. In St. Lucia, nearly everyone is bilingual. When you sit on a bus orhear people talking in the streets they are usually speaking in Patois, anAfro-anglicized French, which is the most commonly spoken language. However,English is used when writing or talking to visitors.

Charter and hotel rates vary with the time of year. Mostpeople want to come down when it is cold up north, so the winter months (Novemberto April) are the high (expensive) season; the rest of the year is low season.Restaurant and bar prices are generally the same year round. During the quietestmonths (September and October) some small hotels close down and the staff go onholiday.

Nearly all visitors bring too much luggage and do not realizethat it is almost impossible to stow hard cases on a yacht. Only soft bagsshould be used. One of my charterers once arrived without luggage, the airlinehaving spirited it away. Rather than wait, he bought a bathing suit, twopairs of shorts and a shirt and wondered why he had ever bothered packinganything else.

If you need prescription drugs, bring an ample supply andmake sure they stay in your carry-on bag.

Life is very informal here and even in the best of eatingplaces men can get by with a pair of slacks and a sports shirt, women with asimple dress.

The Windwards have excellent communications with the rest ofthe world and even in quite small islands you will find internet cafes. Publiccard phones are the obvious place to target the tourist, so calls from suchphones often cost way more than the same call made on a private phone. Inaddition, Cable and Wireless, the main supplier, removed access on most phonesto ATT direct so they could make more money. Many internet cafes offersignificantly better rates.

However, these days there is no reason not to have theconvenience of a phone on the boat at reasonable rates. The introduction of GSMtechnology and the opening of the market to new companies has revolutionized theindustry. From a yachting point of view, the most convenient are the

phones that use prepaid cards, so there is no billing.Digicel seems to have stolen amarch on the others in this respect by considering all the islands from Grenadato St. Lucia (Barbados and Trinidad to be included soon) as one area, so thecards work seamlessly throughout the range. The other major operators, Cable andWireless and ATT, will probably come up with equivalent systems soon, so it isworth checking what all of them have to offer. You can buy a GSM phone locallyor bring your own and get a local SIM card ($30-50 EC).

Martinique is ona different system, but also has prepaid options. If you arespending some time here, it is worth buying one of theirGSM phones or a new SIM.

The same system works for internet, either via a GRSM-enabledphone or with a PCMIA card, which costs around $1000EC locally (may be cheaperto bring one). It has to be said that, at this point, this kind of connection isslow.

Satellite phones are also less expensive than before, and myexperience with Globalstar is that the internet service is significantly fasterthan GRSM. In 2004, Globalstar's Caribbean communications were hopeless for awhile, but the company says it is now running properly.

Clothing. Unlike many other western seaside towns, people inthe Caribbean will look somewhat askance if you wander away from the beach in abathing suit or, perish the thought, a bikini. Away from the beach, even in thattiny waterfront village, people generally wear at least a shirt and pair ofshorts or skirt. In the major towns people dress much as you would if you weregoing to your local town.

For women, toplessness is accepted in some places,particularly in Martinique. I notice it occasionally now on the larger resortbeaches in some of the other islands, but elsewhere it is frowned upon. Theeasiest thing is to see what other people are up to. Complete nudity is bestconfined to extremely secluded beaches or anchorages.

Greetings. Manners here are different and great store is seton greetings: "good morning" or "good afternoon" (or in Martinique"bon jour" or "bonne nuit"). It is considered rude toapproach people with a question or to transact business without beginning withthe appropriate greeting.

Tipping. Everyone likes to be tipped, but it is not alwaysexpected. In restaurants where no service charge is added, a 10% tip is normal. Ifservice has already been included (as it is by law inMartinique), a little extra is appreciated but notessential. Taxi drivers do not normally expect to betipped, but if they go out of their way tohelp you, you can add a few dollars to the fare to show your appreciation. Ifyou get help from kids carrying your suitcases they will expect an EC dollar ortwo.

Local laws require that a water ski vessel has atleast two people on board. Water skiing or jet-skiingwithin 100 yards of a beach or in harbors where yachts are anchored is strictlyforbidden. St. Vincent and the Grenadines have someenlightened environmental laws and jet skiing iscompletely forbidden throughout the country. Jet-skis arealso forbidden in the Soufriere Marine Management Area inSt. Lucia. Legislation is being considered in other islands.

Marijuana grows inthe Windwards and is part of the local Rasta religion. It is, however, illegal,as are all other mind-bending substances except alcohol and tobacco. Laws arevery strict and those caught can expect yacht confiscation and up to lifeimprisonment (a longer vacation than you may have intended).

Whatever the season, the sun is intense and adequateprotection is essential. It is advisable to bring down plenty of sunscreen (15 +) and use it fromthe start, building up exposure slowly. The tops of your feet arevulnerable, so light cotton socks are important. Loose,long-sleeved cotton clothing, hats, andsunglasses are essential. Heavy burning can still takeplace on cloudy days and in shade.

Many great local products are sold in the islands andunavailable anywhere else. Some make great presents. Locally bottled peanuts andcashews taste much fresher and better than imported cans. Grenada has aninspired chocolate factory where organic cocoa beans get made into gourmetchocolate by means of vintage machinery. You can visit and watch it all happen.Most islands have local rums, and on every island you will find a big variety ofhot sauces, a local specialty. One of these, WrecJc-Tum-Fire, comes in severalflavors and is produced by Phil Jones, a charter skipper.

Local coconut water is sold in bottles and delicious.Unfortunately, it only has a short shelf life so not so good to take home.

All the main islands have great fruit and vegetable markets.These are always colorful, but Saturday morning is the best and busiest timewith the greatest selection (Friday in St. Lucia). Never be afraid to ask aboutthings you do not recognize. The market ladies are helpful and will tell you how to cook different vegetables. Some things are not whatthey appear to be. For example, many fruits that look like bananas to theuntrained eye are starchier versions, known as plantains and bluggoes, whichhave to be cooked. (For more local food information, see our Island Foodssection.)

If you don't like to hoof it, you have a choice between taxis,buses, communal taxis, and rental cars.

Taxis are plentiful and come in all shapes and sizes. Forlong trips some bargaining is usually possible. In any case, always ask for thefare in EC dollars (or Euros) before you start. If you think you are beingquoted too high a figure, try another driver.

Colorful, noisy, and cheerful, the buses in the Englishspeaking islands are the mainstay of the transport system. They often bear suchnames as "Trust no Man," "De Bad Ride," "In God weTrust," and similar reflections. Not only is this an inexpensive way totravel, but you get to experience some local life. Most nowadays are minibuses.They are not for the claustrophobic, for there is always room for one more on alocal bus. Just when you think the whole thing is packed to bursting, thedriver's assistant manages to create a tiny square of spare air and, like aconjuror, he whips out yet another seat ~ a pullout piece of wood that is jammedin to take the extra person. Most buses have stereo systems and the drivers liketo run them, like their buses, at full-bore. The buses are a wonderful exampleof the kind of service you can get with free enterprise. If you are carryingheavy shopping and wish to go off the normal route, this can be negotiated. Insome islands buses will stop to pick you up anywhere, in others (including St.Lucia) they are only allowed to pick up at designated stops. Buses do get ratherfew and far between after dark, and may be very limited when going to a distantspot. Before taking off to the other end of an island, make sure there will be abus coming back.

If you arrive by air at a reasonable hour, without too muchluggage, and can make it to the nearest main road, St. Lucia's Hewanorra Airport andthe airport in St. Vincent are on bus routes, and Martinique's airport is on acommunal taxi route.

Now, for the first time, we will discuss the unmentionable:the indomitable cockroach thrives. If you are on a yacht, the odds are thateventually you will find yourself face to face with one of these miniature,armor-plated monstrosities. No need to panic. Despite their off-puttingappearance, they are quite harmless, make good pets, and in reasonablequantities are not a general reflection of the cleanliness of the boat. A gooddose of spray will keep them out of sight for a couple of days (this will bedone automatically on a skippered yacht). If you are on a boat with a badinfestation, the permanent cure is as follows. First, give a good spray toreduce the numbers (not necessary if you only have one or two). Then, using amortar and pestle, grind equal quantities of boric acid and white sugar togetherand distribute freely under drawers, in bottoms of lockers, etc. This willnormallygive at least six months of cockroach-free living. Somepeople prefer to mix the boric acid into a gooey mess with condensed milkbecause they can then stick it on walls and ceilings. I have also found somelarge versions of the "Sticky Box" (usually to be found in Martinique)to be very effective. Cockroaches generally arrive on board as stowaways incardboard cartons or amid fruits and vegetables. It is essential to keep special"cockroach free" crates and boxes on board and transfer all incomingsupplies into them. Examine local fruits and vegetables before you stow them. Somuch for the bad news. The good news is that the boat variety, known as theGerman cockroach, is relatively small, quite unlike the huge shoreside monstersthat grow up to two inches long and are aptly called "mahogany birds."

There are poisonous scorpions and centipedes on the islands, but luckily they are rare and notgenerally deadly. Still, take a good look at that old pile of twigs and leavesbefore you sit and take care when picking up coconut husks to burn for yourbarbecue.

A real danger is the manchineel tree (Hippomane mancinella)which grows abundantly along some beaches. This pretty tree withyellow-green apples is toxic. The leaves can produce a rash like poison ivy. Itis all right to take shade under the tree, but never stand under it in the rainand avoid using the branches for firewood, or that song "Smoke Gets in YourEyes" may take on new meaning. If you eat the apples, they will causeblisters from stem to stern and are very dangerous. I once knew a couple who hada most romantic barbecue on the beach. They used the branches on their fire andlay on the leaves. The next morning they woke up with bunged-up red eyes andrashes in some unfortunate places. They had to stay in bed and delay theircharter for two days. Seagrapes, which often grow near manchineels, are quiteharmless.

Martinique and St. Lucia are also home to a deadly snake, thefer de lance, which is thankfully quite rare. St. Lucia has been listed ashaving a fresh water liver fluke. This is supposed to have been eradicated, butyou might want to restrict your fresh water swimming to the fast streams wellabove habitations.

The main dangers in swimming and snorkeling are negligent andspeeding fishermen, yacht tender drivers, and water taxis. There have been someserious accidents over the years, so swimmers and snorkelers should be aware ofsmall craft movement at all times. Lesser dangers include sea urchins. These arespiny creatures whose prickles penetrate the skin and break off on contact. Thisis quite painful, especially for the first few hours. They are virtuallyimpossible to pull out once embedded, as they break into little pieces. It isbest to leave them in and treat them with hot lime juice, as the acid helpsdissolve them.

There are sharks and barracudas but, unlike their cousins inthe movies, they have yet to attack anyone in these waters unless harassed and so are not considered dangerous here. There isno question that spearfishing can excite these fish. I have dived and snorkeledat night with no problem, but since so few people swim at night, it isimpossible to assess how safe it is. Despite their reputation, moray eels areshort sighted and timid, but it would be pushing your luck to stick your handinto holes in rock or coral. Some corals are poisonous, so it is safest to lookand not touch. This is also better for the coral. Coral scratches can becomeinfected. If you get one, scrub it well with soap and fresh water. Stingingjellyfish are not frequent, but do exist, and occasionally the swimmer may feela mild tingling from minute animals known as sea ants.

A good book on dangerous marine animals would certainly listsome more horrors, but the truth is that harm from any of these is extremelyrare and, provided you watch where you put your hands and feet and keep an eyeon the sea conditions and current, snorkeling is safer than doing the weekly ironing and a lot more fun.

Taxi drivers are often colorful characters, owners of highlyindividual cars, and they have a fund of local knowledge. In St. Vincent andGrenada, some reach beyond the normal bounds of the job. They often act as akind of commission agent as well, running around shopping for yachts, tracingand sending on lost luggage, obtaining hard to find parts, arranging andofficiating at weddings, and even arranging funerals. There is almost nothingsome taxi drivers won't attempt. In Martinique, only a few of the drivers speakEnglish, though they will bear with your French, sometimes with a sense of humor.(A friend once asked a taxi driver in her best French if he was a taxi. "Oh,no," he replied, pointing at his car, "I am a driver; this is the taxi.")Unfortunately, among the good ones there are an overenthusiastic few who willbully or confuse the unwary passenger into going on a tour he or she really doesnot want. There is one basic rule: always discuss and agree on a price beforeyou embark on a taxi ride and make sure you are both talking the same kind ofdollars (EC or US) or, in Martinique, Euros.

At some point, there will be a thump on your topsides anda voice shouting "Hey skip, want some limes? Any laundry then?

How about a coconut boat? It sails very good." You arein islands with a great spirit of free enterprise ~ better get used to it. Fromthe skipper's point of view, the most harrowing thing is trying to persuadethese vendors that you really do not want several hundred pounds of rough woodand exposed nail heads (a local dinghy) banging your topsides. The vendor'scheerful cry of "no problem, skip" does nothing to remove the scratch.

The problem is exacerbated in some areas where thecompetition is so keen that you may be approached two miles from port. This mostoften occurs in the Soufriere/Pi-tons area in St. Lucia and the Cumberland/Wallilabou area in St. Vincent. In these places it is quite a useful servicebecause it is necessary to tie to a palm tree, owing to the depth of water.However, most vendors you meet way out will want you to tow them in. Itis unwise to tow these heavy boats a long way and there are always line handlersclose to the shore, so refuse these long distance offers. You can tell them yourinsurance does not allow for towing. When you get closer, come to a standstill and negotiate the pricebefore handing over any lines. (I offer a set fee of $10 EC on a "take itor leave it" basis.) When finally at anchor, put out at least two bigfenders and make sure any local boats coming alongside stay on them.

You will probably be offered, at various times, t-shirts,jewelry, fruit, scrimshaw, model boats, ice, and bread. It is worthwhileconsidering what is offered.

One service I would definitely avoid is the self-appointed"harbor pilots." Excellent though they may be in a small "two bow"sailing boat, most of these youths have neither the training nor experiencerequired to take charge of an expensive yacht. I have seen one charter boat puton a reef, and others anchored too close to other yachts or moorings. I amsurprised at how many people will hand over the helm to youths who offer to"show dem de way." Better to trust your own judgment and charts andrefuse the services of these youths, asking them to stand clear till you areanchored and have put fenders over the side. They may then prove quite helpful in taking out a second anchor.

Vendors are part of the local scene and endemic toundeveloped countries with struggling economies. Some people enjoy theinteractions and opportunity to do business in this way; most vendors arefriendly and helpful. However, since most visitors have no prior experience withvendors, some find them irritating and I have had letters from people sayingthey would not revisit some anchorages because of their experiences with vendors.

Dealing with vendors is easier once you know to expect them.Be straightforward, look them in the eye, always demand professional behavior,and keep your sense of humor and you will be OK. If you imagine yourself intheir position, it is not hard to figure out how they operate and why.

You will find vendors in the Grenadines, St. Vincent, and St.Lucia. In the Grenadines most are very professional. If you say no, they willleave you in peace. On the other hand, the situation on the west coast of St.Vincent reminds me of the airport in Grenada back in the early 70's when it wasvery amusing to watch the hapless and unsuspecting passenger stagger forth intothe daylight with his three or four suitcases. Within seconds three or four taxidrivers would rush up and each grab a bag and head in different directions,entreating the passenger to follow as loudly as they could. He would standconfused and sweating in his traveling suit, wondering if this was the start ofa trip to hell. Clearly things could not go on that way, and a taxi driversunion was formed to get everyone organized. I feel we need such organization forboat vendors in St. Vincent, where people sometimes find themselves surroundedby vendors all shouting at once, but this is not going to happen soon. In St.Lucia, where it used to be like that, great strides have been made in theSoufriere Marine Management area, and now vendors and taxis are licensed andhave become a positive asset.

Some people complain that while vendors are fine, there arejust too many of them. If I were a charterer (prime custum-ers for vendors;cruising folk don't have too many problems), I think I would make a couple of clearlyvisible signs I could hang from the lifelines near the cockpit saying "I amnot buying now, leave me in peace ~ visit again when this sign is down."

You will also get vendors you should clearly not do businesswith. Sometimes someone will come out to your boat touting a local restaurant.This is fair enough, but when he or she tells you not to visit the otherrestaurant because the food is bad and the cockroaches in the kitchen are thesize of small rats, common sense should tell you this is not an unbiasedjudgment. Yet some visitors are naive enough to heed such advice and usually endup with the worst meal in the harbor as a result. (There is a logic to this:restaurateurs who are willing to encourage such unscrupulous behavior are likelyto be equally dastardly in the kitchen and in dealing with customers.) Peoplehave paid youths to watch their dinghy, which has resulted in the creation of anunnecessary service, with the dinghy watchers often being rude. Lock your dinghyon with a cable and refuse all such services. Make sure your locking line is atleast 16 feet long so that you do not block others approaching the dock.

Some kids beg. "It's my birthday, what are you going togive me?" is a favorite line. It is important to bear in mind that wagesfor an unskilled adult may only be $30 to $50 EC a day. If young kids end upgetting three times that much liming around the docks, begging from tourists, orgetting grossly overpaid for watching dinghies, they skip school and it is hardfor them to adjust later when they need to go out to work. By all means, employkids and find something useful for them to do. That helps the economy, but justthrowing money around is bad for everyone. For those who like to give away money,there are a few beggars who have handicaps. Local associations for thehandicapped are also happy to accept donations.

Most islanders and yachtspeople are very honest, butobviously there are shady characters, too: thieves, con men, and extortionists. Dinghies and outboards are sometimes stolen atnight. It is hard to say how many, because no one wants to admit that his dinghydisappeared after that final rum punch because the "rabbit" lost itsway while going through the "hole" to make the bowline. There havebeen cases when a dinghy is returned the next day and the finders demand hugesums for the "rescue." Boats occasionally get robbed when people areashore. The thieves are mainly looking for cash and easily saleable items.Instead of cash, use traveler's checks (almost universally accepted) and creditcards. Insure valuables such as cameras and binoculars. This way if you do getaffected, the results will not be as bad.

There are a few who will provide a service and then demandoutrageous sums, so always ask the price before accepting any service, including taxis. Make sure you are both referring toEC dollars.

When you are planning to walk at night or hike into remoteplaces, it doesn't hurt to ask around first, especially if you are alone or withjust one other person. Keep in mind that while the islands are generally safe,there are isolated incidents, as there are anywhere in the world. Occasionallysomeone turns bad and goes on a robbing spree, doing a "your money or yourlife" bit with the aid of a cutlass. Usually they run amok for a month ortwo before they get well and truly nailed. Once they are put away everythingreverts to normal. For current information on where there are problems, ask inany charter company office; also, read the free waterfront newspaper, CaribbeanCompass, which often highlights areas that are a problem.

The light in the Windwards is so bright that colors oftenphotograph better in the early morning or late afternoon. There is enough lightfor you to be able to use slow speed film (ASA 64 or 100). This changes if youventure into the rain forest where the light is poor and sometimes ASA 400 isonly just enough. Slide film can be hard to come by in the islands, so if thisis what you use, bring plenty with you. Sea shots will come out much betterusing a polarizing filter. You can watch the colors change as you twist thefilter. Keep an eye on the sky as well as the sea, as it will turn grey at someangles. Digital photography works very well in the islands. (The photos in thisbook are digital.) Digital cameras seem to produce images with less contrastthan film, which can be helpful in the bright light. If your camera usesspecialized camera batteries, bring plenty with you.

It is only polite to ask when you want to photograph someone.Local attitudes can be a little strange. People with cameras sometimes become afocal point for frustrations and feelings of being exploited. If you try to takea crowd scene, someone will often object and, funnily enough, that person mightnot even be in the picture. Vendors who deal with tourists are usually happy tosay "yes," especially if you are buying something. Those with aPolaroid "now-for-now" camera who are willing to give some prints willhave the greatest success. Digital cameras are good too, as you canshow the image on the screen.

Trolling for fish is fun, means free food, and those youcatch yourself always taste better. The simplest gear is adequate: about 150yards of 80- to 100-lb. test line, a wire leader, swivel, hook, and lure. Pinkand white seem to be the fishes' "in" colors recently. It is necessaryto feel the line every few minutes to see if you have caught anything (a clothespin can be rigged as a telltale), and every 40 minutes or so it should be hauledin for a weed check. Fish never go for a weed lure. Fish are easily cleaned andscaled, but if you have never done it before, hire a local to show you how withyour first fish.

Any fish you catch out in open water will almost certainly begood to eat. Fish poisoning, common farther north, is a rarity here. One mightbe suspicious of a really large barracuda who could be down from up northvisiting relatives, but smaller barracuda (around 5 Ibs.) are consideredexcellent eating. If you have no luck fishing, it is often possible to buy fishfrom the local fishermen. Do not be offended if they offer you dolphin. This isa delicious fish and no relative of Flipper.

The lobster season is usually from the first of October tothe end of April. During this time, lobsters may be bought from local fishermen,and the most likely places to find them are Mustique, Union, the Tobago Cays andP.S.V.

It is against the law to buy lobster outof season, those less than 9 inches long, or lobsters bearingeggs at any time, and the fines are steep. You may be offered one, but pleaserefuse.

There is adequate medical care for most ailments in all thelarger islands and any of the hotels or charter companies will help you get intouch with a doctor. There is a doctor and a good little clinic in PortElizabeth in Bequia which stands by on VHP: 74 and responds to emergency calls.Mustique is a good place to get sick. There is an excellent small clinic, (784)458-4621 (ask for the clinic), situated next to the airport in case you needfurther treatment. In emergencies, remember that all cruise ships stand by onVHP: 16 and carry doctors on board. If you have a life-threatening situationthat needs hospitalization or includes serious head injuries, plan on immediatetransport to Martinique or Barbados. You can call the Martinique hospital (0596)55 20 00/51 51 52 for a helicopter ambulance. For diving accidents needingdecompression, call Barbados (246) 436-6185 or Martinique (0596) 50 20 00 forimmediate evacuation. For lesser emergencies in Martinique, try this clinic:(0596) 71 82 85.

St. Lucia: If you have a serious problem, or need aspecialist, then call or go to Tapion Hospital, (758) 459-2000, which is a kindof medical mall with all kinds of doctors and testing services. Dr. AndrewRichardson, the general surgeon, is good, and may also be consulted as a regulardoctor.

Closer by, you can try the Gros Ilets Poly Clinic, near themarina (758) 450-9661. Kent Glace is the best man for dental care: (758)452-8621. He has a surgery in Rodney Bay.

In Grenada, if you need hospitalization, try the new St.Augustine's Medical Clinic: (473) 440-6173/5. It is quite complete, with a lotof modern equipment.

For a doctor visit, Dr. Bradford Noel Ocean House, Grand Anse(afternoon) (473) 444-1178, ho:(473) 444-5624, rosbrad@caribsurf.com, isthorough and has equipment to do an ECG or endoscopy right in his office. Dr. Yearwood in the same center is both ageneral surgeon and a competitive yachtsman.

Or visit Dr. Michael Radix, surgery: (473) 444-4850,440-4379; home: (473) 443-5330. Mike is a good old-school doctor, very pleasantto visit, and he makes house calls.

Dr. Roxanne Nedd is the best for dental care. Her office(473) 444-2273 is near Excel Mall in Grand Anse.

St. Vincent: Maryfield Hospital (highly recommended by someof our readers), Gunn Hill, Kingstown: (784) 457-259S/ 2929, or use the BotanicHospital: (784) 457-1747.

In the evenings, sunset brings an opportunity to look for theelusive "green flash." This happens as the sun disappears below thehorizon. For about a second (blink and you've missed it), the very last bit ofthe sun to disappear turns bright green. To see this you need a clear horizonand the right atmospheric conditions. Some say rum punch helps. Binoculars makeit a lot clearer. Photographers will need a big telephoto lens evening dancing with a floorshow. Some hotels serve Sundaylunch to the accompaniment of a steel band. You can dance, swim, or just enjoythe music.

There are a variety of local occasions for entertainment andpartying. If you happen to be here at the right time, they are worthinvestigating.

Carnival started as a riotous bacchanal before Lent.Carnivals feature costumed parades, calypso contests, steel bands, and days ofdancing in the street. Martinique still has theirs before Lent, but St. Vincent,St. Lucia and Grenada have switched. Check our information on holidays at thebeginning of each island section.

Both St. Lucia and Grenada have jazz festivals that lastabout a week. St. Lucia's is in early May; Grenada's in late May or early June.The events often move from location to location and it is often possible tofollow in your yacht. Basil, in Mustique, runs a small but good blues festivalsometime during late January or early February.

You can also join in sailing events. Martinique has a funweek in early June with races from port to port around Martinique and plenty ofgood food and entertainment.

If you are here on July 14th, the French national holiday,you may see Yole (pirogue) races around Fort de France. Yoles also feature ineach coastal village during celebrations for its patron saint. Anyone interestedcan get a list from the local tourist office. Martinique has a series of racesthat tour the island over several days in January and a sailing week based atSchoelcher in February.

St. Lucia's Pitons Regatta is in the second week of Februaryand includes four days of racing out of Rodney Bay.

Bequia's Easter Regatta is well worth attending. It includesyacht races, local "two-bow" fishing boat races, model boat races, andcultural shows.

The Grenada Sailing Festival is held in January. It offers aprogram of race events backed by a well organized social program. All entrantsare welcome, from serious racing boats to live-aboards. A new summer regatta hasstarted in Grenada in June or July. At Easter, Grenada holds a three-day regatta,including the Round Grenada Race.

The Carriacou Regatta, late July or early August, is a localevent featuring races for small fishing boats and the larger cargo carryingsloops. These are some of the finest sailing vessels made in the islands. Ashorethere is plenty of fun.

Most visitors are courteous and well behaved. With theincreasing volume of yachts in the area, it definitely helps if people areconsiderate. Anchorages here have been reasonably free of loud noises, includingdrunken raucous laughter, stereo equipment, endlessly running generators, andloudly clanking halyards. Luckily, there is plenty of room in most anchorages,so those who want to make noise or need to run generators for much of the timecan just stay well away from everyone else. Most of us have to run our enginesat some time during the day, but let us at least leave the hour around sunsetfree so everyone can enjoy it in peace. One disturbing exception to this hasbeen the increase in windmills. Most of these are quiet and unobtrusive, but a few can be heard wellover a 100 yards away. They can destroy the natural peace of many a quietanchorage. Plus some people who own them seem to think that because they are notusing fossil fuels, they are on the side of the angels and can do no wrong. Theyrun them 24 hours a day without giving any consideration to others who find thenoise irritating. If you have not yet bought a windmill, consider buying a quietone or, better still, try solar panels. If you already own a noisy one, pleasetry to anchor to the back of the fleet, and when your batteries are charged up,stop the blades.

Right now you can don a mask and snorkel and dive over the side anywhere in the Windwards and find the seabed pretty clean. Let's keep itthat way.

The days have gone when we could jump over the side,bristling with knives and festooned with spearguns long enough to be sold by theyard, to decimate the local fish population. Spearfishing has proved toodamaging and new laws have been passed to control it. It is now illegal forvisitors to spearfish anywhere from St. Lucia to Grenada. Compliance helps theenvironment. Also note that in St. Vincent and the Grenadines fines for illegalfishing exceeded $100,000 during the first couple of years they were enforced.

Hunters should note that all cows, goats and sheep, even onremote uninhabited islands, are privately owned. They are often put out to grazeand left for months on end. They should not be harmed.

Our record on yacht garbage is terrible. The problem is inthe Grenadine Islands where our garbage totally overwhelms the availablefacilities. We need to cut down on what we bring ashore, and we have to becareful what we bring ashore. Food waste in all its forms should stored in aseparate container and dumped when you are out at sea in deep water, far fromreefs. Carrying organic food matter from one island to another as garbage is adangerous practice. Island agriculture is very sensitive as we saw a couple ofyears ago when an introduced pink mealy bug spread rapidly through some of theWindward Islands and cost millions of dollars in lost produce. It happened againmore recently when a mango worm was introduced to Grenada. Organic matter maycontain fruit flies, cockroaches, fungi and other potentially dangerous pests.So take care when transporting and disposing of fresh fruit and vegetable matter.In addition, it is unwise to transport things like woven palm hats and basketsbetween islands.

Most harbors are open to the west and if you are stuck insuch a harbor too long, dinghy the food waste as far out of the harbor as youcan and dump it there, prefer ably at dusk. Never do this in places like the Tobago Cayswhere there are islands and reef downwind. Rinse all your empty cans andcontainers in seawater before putting them in the trash.

It is best to buy things with as little packing as possibleand use returnable bottles. Take along your own shopping bags and avoid thoseplastic ones.

In addition, yachtspeople have caused considerabledegradation by letting locals dispose of their garbage for a fee. Never givegarbage to vendors. Some will solicit to take your garbage for a couple ofdollars. However, these people have no proper means of disposing of it. The goodones try to burn it, but combustion is never complete and the remains are leftstrewn around. Others dump your garbage in holes in the bushes and the worsttake it to the nearest beach, rummage through for items of interest, and abandonit. You are responsible for your own garbage. If you give it to someone else fora fee, they are considered your employee, and if they litter with your garbage,you are legally liable.

Never throw plastics, including bags and bottled watercontainers, at sea! Leath-erback turtles eat jellyfish and many have been founddead, their stomachs filled with plastic bags. Smelly bags can be rinsed in theocean before storing. Other items that should never be thrown out at sea includestring and fishing line which might form a tangle trap somewhere or be eaten, orplastic lined cardboard cartons (juice cartons, etc.) and tin foil. These canall be rinsed in seawater before stowing. Similarly, anything that could be theleast bit toxic, including aerosol sprays and chemicals, should not be dumped at sea.

Most garbage consists of paper, cardboard,cans and bottles. Should we throw these at sea? Ideally,no. The ocean is not a dumping ground, and if we are not very careful where wedump such garbage we can damagereef structures. On the other hand, we should not take these items ashore anddump them in the Grenadines where the facilities are totally inadequate. So whatto do? As far as possible, keep such garbage for an adequate refuse facility inone of the larger islands. Martinique has plenty of places to put garbage, andyou will find adequate facilities in Rodney Bay and Mart-got Bay in St. Lucia,and in GYS, Spice Island Marine and Secret Harbour in Grenada.

If you are unable to do this, then it is probably marginallybetter to dump nonre-turnable bottles, cans, shredded paper, and cardboard farfrom land, with no islands or reefs in the lee, in water over 600 feet deep,than it is to pile them in a heap on land where they are not being collected.Paper and cardboard will eventually dissolve (though we do not know about thetoxicity of the inks printed on them). Cans and bottles will sink and sit on theseabed which, in deep water, is mainly sand or mud. Nothing should ever bedumped near a reef or inan anchorage.

Another form of degradation occurs when yachtspeople acceptoffers from locals to "fix up a barbecue" on shore. While not wishingto deprive locals of a livelihood by this method, I would point out that inpopular spots, like the Tobago Cays, the resulting mess from litter hassometimes been dreadful and that enough charcoal has been mixed with the sand toturn it grey in places. So if you barbecue ashore (with or without local help)dispose of everything properly yourself. You cannot assume it will be done foryou, even if you are paying for your meal.

In minutes, anchors can destroy what nature has takengenerations to build. A coral structure is a colony of millions of minuteanimals called polyps. They are fragile and reefs grow very slowly. Always anchor on sand, neveron coral. If there is any doubt, have someone snorkeling when you drop youranchor. Dinghy anchors also do harm, so use a sand anchor for your dinghy andanchor on the sand beside the coral, rather than on the coral itself.

When snorkeling or diving, be careful of coral structures.Avoid standing, bumping into, getting swept onto or grabbing coral structures.Even a small amount of damage can open a coral structure to being taken over bysponges and algae. Don't wear gloves when diving and snorkeling, and never takeanything from the reef.

Few people realize how powerfully their dollars speak, andone of the very best things you can do for the environment is to spend wisely.

Dollars spent on such items as wood carvings, jewelry madefrom decorative local seeds, banana craft, straw goods, woven grasses, andanything made from coconut shells will really help the economy and theenvironment. Jewelry made from conch shells is also okay as these are caught fortheir meat, and the shell is normally thrown away. (However, check importationregulations in your home country.) T-shirts and other locally manufactured itemsare fine also.

Avoid buying coral and turtleshell products. Considerabledamage to reef structures is done by youths who take corals to sell to jewelrymakers. The hawksbill turtle, most often killed for its shell, is an endangeredspecies, as are all Caribbean sea turtles, and importation of turtle shell isforbidden in most countries. These items are sold mainly to yachts, so let ussay "no" to these vendors and support the turtles and reefs. If youvisit during the lobster season and are buying lobsters, always turn them overto see if they have eggs underneath (easily seen as red caviar). If they do,refuse to buy them.

I am happy to say that in the years since I included thisparagraph, the amount of coral and turtle shell products offered to yachtspeoplehas diminished significantly. Thank you!

Gruising Information

There are two seasons, the dry and the wet, but they are notalways well differentiated. During the dry season (February to June) there willoften be weeks of clear sunny weather broken only by an occasional small rainshower. In the wet season (July until January) there will still be plenty ofsunshine, but with more frequent showers and occasional rainy days with no sun.There is very little temperature difference between the seasons; you can expect78° to 85°F (25°to 29°C) year round.

The winds nearly always blow from between northeast tosoutheast at 10 to 25 knots; calms are rare. The wind tends to strengthen aroundthe northern ends of islands. Rain usually arrives in intense squalls that canbe seen coming from afar. Sometimes these squalls have a lot of wind in them (40knots or more); often they do not. There is no way to tell before they arrive.Infrequently, a squall or cold front can produce winds from the westerlyquadrant, making the usual anchorages uncomfortable.

During the winter months, storms and cold fronts farthernorth sometimes produce swells that reach the Windwards. These northerly swellscan make anchorages that are open to the north or west roily and occasionallyuntenable. Few swells are really bad ~ but when they are, you have to beprepared to move to a calmer spot, even in the middle of the night. Swells havecaused the demise of quite a few unattended yachts. Hurricanes also cause swellsduring the hurricane season. These swells may come from any direction, dependingon the position of the storm.

In the winter season a big high-pressure area to ournortheast is a dominant feature. When the isobars get tight the wind increasesand is sometimes very fresh (25-30 knots). We call these Christmas winds. Thisis offset by cold fronts that come down from the northwest. They almost nevermake it as far as the Windwards, but as they approach we often get very calm andsunny weather followed by wind and rain, as their tail ends affect our area.

Visibility varies from an exceptional low of 5 miles to ahigh of over 50 miles. The hazy days are caused by dust from Africa. Sometimesreddish traces may be found on the cabin and decks. On hazy days avoid duststains when doing the laundry by wiping off the lifelines before hanging out thewashing.

The hurricane season is from June to October. The months ofJune, July, and October only produce about one hurricane every three years forthe whole western Atlantic, including the Caribbean Sea and Gulf of Mexico.During August and September the number is around five a year. Hurricanesfrequently start well out in the Atlantic Ocean, often on the latitude of theWindwards, but then they usually swing north and pass through the Caribbeanhigher up. Very few hit the Windwards and sometimes years go by without one inthis area, but it is essential to listen to the forecasts. Try BarbadosBroadcasting Corp., with a weather forecast after the 0700 morning news. If youare in Grenada, Radio Grenada has a forecast at about the same time. Radio Kayakin Carriacou puts out weather at 0725 and 0915. You can also try Gem Radio.Otherwise go into any internet cafe and get the weather on the web. (We givelinks to several forecasts on doyleguides.com.)

Here are some terms you will hear on the radio and what theymean: "Intertropi-cal convergence zone" affecting the area. This isnot any kind of low, but you may get some rain squalls or cloudy weather."Tropical disturbance," "tropical wave," and "upperlevel trough" are poorly organized weather systems associated with rainsqualls of varying intensity. A "tropical depression" is an organizedweather system with sustained winds of up to 35 knots and rain. Sometimes thesecan be very nasty and other times they turn out to be nothing. A "tropicalstorm," on the other hand, is definitely something to be avoided as it haslots of rain and sustained winds of 35 to 63 knots. Once the sustained windsbecome more than 64 knots, it is called a hurricane.

Hurricane winds can come from any direction, so be preparedto run for one of the hurricane holes: Cohe du Lamentin, Trois Ilet, or betterstill, Cul de Sac Marin in Martinique; Rodney Bay Lagoon or Marigot Bay in St.Lucia; the mangrove swamp in Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou; and in Grenada, Port Egmont.

During one of the very few hurricanes that we did get, acharter party was advised by their company to make at once for a safe harbor toride it out. "Oh no," they said "we have confirmed flights outand don't want to miss them ~ we will make it in time." They sailed northfrom St. Vincent to St. Lucia, but by the time they reached Soufriere, it wasraining cats and dogs, and the wind was howling, so they anchored and wentashore. The boat soon began to drag and the skipper, aided by a local fisherman,tried to re-anchor. They managed to get their anchor line caught in the prop sothey could not use power, and it was blowing too hard to make sail. In the endthey drifted all night through the hurricane, and were rescued, after the windsfell, by a French coast guard boat off Martinique. I suppose the moral of thetale is that it is amazing what you can get away with, but better not to try.

Those needing regular charts have a choice between BritishAdmiralty (B.A.), U.S. Defense Mapping Agency (D.M.A) and yachting charts. U.K.charts are much more expensive in the U.S. and vice versa. If you are buying newcharts make sure they are based on WG 84 data so they can beused with Global Positioning Systems (GPS).

For yachting charts you have the choice between two chartkits; Nautical Publications chart kits and the British Admiralty's LeisureFolios, both based on WG 84 data, and both in full color. The format isrelatively small (23.5" by 16.5") so you never need to fold them. Eachkit comes in a handy plastic see-through envelope that you can take into thecockpit with the current chart on top. This also ensures (as a friend of minefound out) that, rather than losing one chart over the side, the whole kit canblow over, so make a little hole in the plastic and tie the envelope down.Either package makes chart buying very simple as one packet covers a whole area,including harbor plans. Hasko Scheidt of Nautical Publication has done severalsurveys in the Caribbean, and in those areas he has surveyed (including the eastcoast of Antigua and the south coast of Barbuda), their charts are particularlygood. One of the delightful things about the Nautical Publications charts isthat they include very detailed land information as well as nauticalinformation. We have agreed to help users of these charts by cross-linking themto this guide.

Imray lolaire also does yachting charts and these are printedon plastic so they last just about forever and you can get them wet. However,vigorous rubbing will take the color right off them, so experiment a littlebefore you cover them with temporarypencil lines. In the unlikelyevent you need todispose of them, they should be treated as plastic, not paper. These chartsare sold individually soyou can tailor your collection toyour needs, andthey are large format,like the hydrographic charts. You probably need fewer of themas most includeseveral detailed harbor plans.

I have had someexperience now using electronic charts. I have found theGarmin Blue Map series, whichworks on my little Garminmapreader, is exceptionally good at placing you inthe right place with respect to land. Thesecharts are also somewhat simple and sometimes lackadequate depth data. I have alsohad good luck using the Nautical Publications digital charts by Maptech andthese are much more detailed. Ihave not tried the others.

All the islandsnow use the IALA B buoyage system. Main channels are marked with red and greenbuoys or beacons with red to starboard whenentering: in other words "Red Right Returning." Other shoals and channelsare indicated by blackand yellow buoys or beacons coded both with respect tocolor and triangulation (using cones) asshown in the diagram below.

Lights and buoys in the Windwards may be unreliable. Lightssometimes do not work, buoys can go adrift, and beacons can lose color andcones. In short, treat navigational aids with great caution.

The tidal range is around two feet, not enough to be criticalexcept in a few places. An equatorial current sets to the west-northwest. Thiscurrent is affected by the tide when you are within a few miles of land. Acounter current begins about one hour before low water and offsets theequatorial current and can run up to one knot to the east. This continues forabout four hours. Skippers of boats that are very slow to windward can make useof this to help them when sailing between islands. However, it is a mixedblessing because the counter current usually sets up much rougher seas.

GPS is the biggest leap in navigational science since theinvention of the chronometer. Now we can always know our position anywhere inthe world. Accurate though this system is, there are limitations. I have noticedoccasional inaccuracies up to a tenth of amile, even when the GPS suggested the accuracy should havebeen better. Therefore I would not advise using a GPS to navigate reef-strewnpassages at night or in poor visibility. Many of the older charts were createdon unspecified formats, and inaccuracies of up to half a mile may occur. Mostnewer charts are based on WG 84 data and work with GPS. The charts in this bookare on GPS grids created by using a Garmin 50 on WG 84 data, using muchinterpolation. No guarantee is offered about their accuracy, but I would beinterested to hear how accurate readers find them. We include a table of GPSpositions for planning purposes. You cannotjust punch these numbers in and sail safely there; land and shoals will probablybe on your line of approach, depending on your route.

The Windwards contain four separate countries: Martinique,St. Lucia, St. Vincent (including the Grenadines to PSV), and Grenada (whichincludes Carriacou and Petite Martinique). Each has its own customs regulationsand it is necessary to clear in and out of each country. On arrival you shouldanchor in a port of entry and hoist a yellow flag. After that you can goashore in search of customs and immigration officers. Passports, ship's papers,and three to four copies of your crew list are required. Martinique, St. Lucia,and St. Vincent will supply you with their special one-page forms. In Grenada itis best to take your own. Make four copies, include the yacht's name, tonnageand home port, along with the names of all crew members, their nationalities andpassport numbers. When clearing, always take your previous clearance with you.Customs and immigration officers will refuse to deal with anyone not wearing ashirt and looking reasonably presentable. Charges and other details are givenunder island and harbor headings.

So you've brought your pet all the way over the ocean and nowyou want to take it for a walk! Well, here is what you can expect from the localauthorities. In Martinique and Grenada, if you have a rabies vaccinationcertificate handy when you clear in, you can walk your dog ashore. St. Vincentand St. Lucia are both rabies free and animals are not allowed ashore under anycircumstances.

Few people realize that dogs in the Caribbean are subject toa deadly little heart worm. Check with a vet for appropriate counter measuresbefore leaving, or as soon as you get here.

GPS WAYPOINTS

For planning purposes only. These waypoints may be downloaded fromwww.doyleguides.com along with links to help you put them on your GPS.

ID Latitude Longitude	Comment
MARTINIQUE
WMTQ01 N14°26.00' W061°05.00'	Approach to SW coast
WMTQ02 N14°44.50' W061°10.70'	Off main dock St. Pierre
WMTQ03 N14°38.40' W0.6r08.50¹	0.1 miles W of harbor wall, Case Pilote
WMTQ04 N14°37.80' W061°09.20'	0.5 mile clear of Case Pilote fish farm
WMTQ05 N14°36.80' W061°06.40'	Schoelcher
WMTQ06 N14°35.00' W061°05.00'	Approach to Fort de France
WMTQ07 N14°35.70' W061°04.40'	Approach Fort de France anchorage
WMTQ08 N14°32.90' W061°02.10'	Approach to Trois Nets
WMTQ09 N14°33.60' W061°02.80'	Approach to Trou Etienne
WMTQ10 N14°33.70' W061 "03.40'	Pointe du Bout
WMTQ11 N14°33.00' W061°04.00'	Approach for Anse A L'Ane
WMTQ12 N14°31.80' W061°05.40'	Anse Noir
WMTQ13 N14°30.00' W061°06.00'	Grand Anse D'Arlet
WMTQ14 N14°29.20' W061°05.20'	Petit Anse D'Arlet (middle of bay)
WMTQ15 N14°27.70' W061°00.50'	Approach for Marigot
WMTQ16 N14°25.00' W060°55.00'	Approach to St. Anne & Marin
WMTQ17 N14°26.70' W060°54.00'	Cul de Sac Marin (entrance)
WMTQ18 N14°26.20' W060°53.20'	Ste. Anne (western part of anchorage)
WMTQ19 N14°24.90' W060°49.80'	Bale Des Anglais (entrance)
ST LUCIA
WSLU01 N14°05.50' W060°58.20'	0.1 miles west of Pigeon Island
WSLU02 N14°04.73' W060°57.40'	Rodney Bay Lagoon (entrance)
WSLU03 N14°04.10' W060°58.70'	southern approach, inside Barrel of Beef
WSLU04 N14°01.20' W061°00.50'	Castries (entrance)
WSLU05 N13°58.10' W061°01.90'	Marigot (entrance)
WSLU06 N13°56.40' W061°03.20'	Anse La Raye (entrance)
WSLU07 N13°55.60' W061°03.70"	Anse Cochon
WSLU08 N13°54.70' W061°04.30'	Jambette Point
WSLU09 N13°51.50' W061°05.20'	0.4 miles SW of Anse Chastanet reef
WSLU10 N13°51.20' W061°03.80'	Soufriere
WSLU11 N13°48.50' W061°05.00'	0.2 miles west of Gros Piton
WSLU12 N13°43.00' W060°58.00'	0.75 miles WSW of dock Vieux Fort
WSLU13 N13°46.00' W061°05.00'	2.3 miles south of Gros Piton
ST VINCENT
WSTV01 N13°20.00' W061°15.00'	2 miles northwest of Chateaubelair
WSTV02 N13°16.00' W061°15.80'	Cumberland Bay (center of entrance)
WSTV03 N13°14.90' W061°16.50'	Wallilabou (center of entrance)
WSTV04 N13°14.40' W061°16.90'	0.1 miles W of Bottle & Glass
WSTV05 N13°11.40' W061°16.20'	Buccament Bay (center)
ST VINCENT (cont.)
WSTV06 N13°10.90' W061°16.20'	Petit Byahaut
WSTV07 N13°09.50' W061°14.90'	Ottley Hall (entrance)
WSTV08 N13°09.00' W061°14.00'	Kingstown (center of bay)
WSTV09 N13°07.60' W061°12.40'	0.1 miles SW of Fort Duvemette
WSW10 N13°07.50' W061°11.90'	Approach to Blue Lagoon
GRENADINES
WGNS01 N13°00.70' W061°15.10'	0.1 miles west of Devil's Table, Bequia,
WGNS02 N12°59.50' W061°17.60'	Bequia, West Cay (just off W end)
WGNS03 N12°59.10' W06T14.00¹	Bequia, Friendship Bay
WGNS04 N12°53.50' W061°12.00'	Mustique appoach, north of Montezuma
WGNS05 N12°52.50' W061°12.00'	Mustique appoach, south of Montezuma
WGNS06 N12°52.80' W061°11.50'	Mustique Bitannia Bay
WGNS07 N12M4.40' W061°20.00'	Canouan, nothwest point
WGNS08 N12M2.70^{1 W061°20.20'}	Canouan, Charlestown Bay (center of)
WGNS09 N12°42.40' W061°21.40'	Just northwest of Glossy Hill, Canouan
WGNS10 N12°39.50' W061°23.00'	0.5 miles west of Saline Rocks
WGNS11 N12"38.20' W061°21.80'	0.1 miles W of Petit Rameau, Tobago Cays
WGNS12 N12°39.00' W061°23.70'	Mayreau, Salt Whistle Bay
WGNS13 N12°38.00' W061°24.50'	Mayreau, Saline Bay
WGNS14 N12°36.00' W061°28.00'	0.25 miles W of Chatham Bay, Union
WGNS15 N12°36.00' W061°24.20'	Union, northen approach to Union/Palm
WGNS16 N12°35.00' W061°25.00'	0.25 miles W of Grand de Coi, Union
WGNS17 N12°32.90' W061°24.10'	0.2 miles N of Mopion Channel, PSV
WGNS18 N12°32.00' W061°23.50'	0.5 miles west of PSV dock
WGNS19 N12°32.00' W061°27.00'	0.7 miles WNW of north end of Carriacou
WGNS20 N12°30.00' W061°30.80'	2.8 miles west of Jack a Dan, Carriacou
WGNS21 N12°29.70' W061°28.20'	Just west of Jack a Dan, Carriacou
WGNS22 N12°27.00' W061°30.00'	Tyrrel Bay (entrance)
WGNS23 N12°19.00' W061°36.00'	Isle de Ronde
GRENADA
WGDA01 N12°15.00' W061°40.00'	1 miles N of David Point
WGDA02 N12°06.70' W061°45.00'	Halifax Harbour (entrance)
WGDA03 N12°05.20' W061°45.90'	Dragon Bay (entrance)
WGDA04 N12°02.70' W061°45.50'	0 25 miles W of entrance to St. George's
WGDA05 N12°00.20' W061°48.40'	Point Saline Gust off tip of land)
WGDA06 N11°59.60' W061°46.20'	True Blue (entrance)
WGDA07 N 11 "59.30' W061°46.00'	Prickly Bay (entrance)
WGDA08 N11°58.60' W061°45.90'	0.25 miles W of Porpoises rocks
WGDA09 N11°59.00' W061°45.10'	Approach for Mt Hartman Bay
WGDA10 N11°59.00' W061°44.20'	Approach for Hog Island
WGDA11 N11°59.10' W061°43.50'	Approach for Clarkes Court Bay
WGDA12 N11°59.30' W061°42.70'	Approach for Port Egmont
WGDA13 N12°00.00' W061°42.10'	Approach for Calivigny habour
WGDA14 N12°00.60' W061°40.70'	St. David's Harbour (entrance)

Whether you want to go bareboat, fully crewed, one way,multihull or monohull, you can find something to suit in the Windwards. A listof charter companies is given in our directory.

For those without much experience, the easiest sail is fromSt. Vincent to Union or Grenada. Most charter companies will be happy to arrangeone way charters for an extra fee, and most skippered yachts will pick up anddrop off at ports of your choice for no extra charge.

The sail from St. Lucia to St. Vincent is a long hard day'ssail. The return trip is often worse. If you are starting a charter in St. Luciaor Martinique, it makes a lot of sense to sail one way and finish in UnionIsland or Grenada. This is especially true if you only have a week or so.

I had the pleasure to run one of the first Caribbeanbareboats ~ a little 31-footer called Rustler. When we said"bareboat," we meant it. Rustler came with a hand start die-sel thatwould barely push her out of the anchorage, a small ice box full of ice and 40gallons of water which were pumped up by hand. Mechanical complexities consistedof a massive British marine toilet, with endless valves and pumps. Thisantiquity was almost impossible to clog, but at the same time, however much you worked on the packing gland, within a coupleof days it tended to squirt you in the eye. The outboard was a close relative ~all chrome and stainless with no cover. You had to wind the cord round theflywheel for every start and go through an elaborate system of switching valvesand vents and bleeding for exactly the right number of seconds. The only thingto be said in its favor was that even the roughest of mechanics could do a majoroverhaul with a screwdriver, a big hammer and a pair of pliers.

When I look at some of the bareboat ads these days it seemsthat people want to take it all with them when they get away from it all.Freezers, fridges, hair driers, microwave ovens, TV, telephones and video areall available.

One thing that years of sailing has taught me is thatanything mechanical, electrical or electronic, when installed on a well-usedyacht, will eventually go wrong. Bareboats are particularly susceptible becauseof all the different people using the gear. In practical terms, this means that breakdowns are partand parcel of a modern sophisticated yacht, and not necessarily a reflection onthe efficiency and ability of the charter company. The charter people realizethis, they all help each other's yachts and do their best to have a breakdownand back up service, despite the problems posed by the Windwards, which are wellspread out. But it is important that bareboaters appreciate the essentiallyadventurous nature of a bareboat holiday and not let it be ruined by amalfunctioning hair drier.

I still have the log book from Rustler and there is an entryI am specially fond of. At the beginning it is written in the hand of thegroup's self-appointed leader, Dr. Smith, who was not the least bit happy. Eachday was another disaster. He couldn't make the outboard start, he couldn't findthe boat hook, one of the navigation lights malfunctioned, he was "verydisappointed" in the condition of the boat. Then the handwriting changedand the new entry said: "Dr. Smith had to return home for pressing personal reasons. Rustler is now a fine yacht, the weather isperfect, the sailing fantastic. We are having a marvelous time."

A good thing about chartering is that those occasions thatare terrible at the time make great stories later. Not very long ago a bareboatwas on a reef in the middle of nowhere and on the radio to the company's localrepresentative who was trying to assess the situation.

'We are hard aground, the rudder is broken and we cannotsteer," lamented the charterer.

There was a pause of a few seconds, then back came a verydefinite answer, "Oh no, we did that yesterday in St. Vincent."

Having spent years both running bareboats and skipperingcharters, I can attest without any question that skippered charters produce moreglowing praise. A crewed charter is also a real holiday for everyone, with nogalley and cleaning chores.

Many agents talk a lot about matching charterers to crew. Infact, most charterers are happy, easy to please and good company, and goodprofessional skippers can adapt themselves to all kinds of people. Cooks developa sensitivity to produce the right kind of food.

It is worth keeping in mind that, although yacht crews reallyenjoy what they are doing and genuinely like their guests, there is some strainto always being on one's best behavior and there are a few things that can makelife a lot easier. It is a huge help if all the charterers go ashore for acouple of hours each day, either to shop, walk, or go to the beach. At thispoint the crew can put on their favorite music full blast and clean the boatwith much banging and gay abandon. The charterers will return to a clean boatand a much-refreshed crew.

Cooks hate to be watched while they work. It makes them nervous and upsets their concentration. There is no way youwould know this, because they are well trained to smile and answer a string ofquestions. Much better to leave them alone in the galley and give them theattention they deserve when they produce that final work of art.

The cook usually works much harder than the skipper, so it isa great break if the guests decide to eat out, even if it is just a matter ofhaving a sandwich ashore instead of returning for lunch. Unfairly, the bestcooks get the fewest breaks, as no one can bear to miss a single meal.

It is a tradition that at some point the guests take theircrew out for dinner. For the crew the break is more important than the dinner,and if you are on a budget, they don't mind if it is somewhere quite simple.

Tipping is a big item for most crews as this makes up a largepart of their income. Unless otherwise stated, 10 percent of the total charterfee is the norm and an appropriate figure for good service. With the currentcosts of maintaining a yacht, owner-skippers are delighted to accept tips.However, if you feel embarrassed about tipping an owner, give it all to thecook, especially if the owner is a man and the cook is his wife or girlfriend.If they have a good relationship she will split it with him and if they don't,she probably deserves all of it.

Most cruisers can quickly adjust to Island time. If itdoesn't get done today, tomorrow will suffice. Such thinking does not work forprofessional charter and super yachts on strict timetables, with guests arrivingand leaving, chores to get done and breakdowns to be coped with. I remember oncemany years ago arriving in Grenada with a charter turnaround on the eve of someholiday and not being able to get laundry done at any price.

Happily things are much better today. There are a number ofgood business that cater to professional yachts, and they will do what it takesto make things happen. The contacts below will help.

Note: when dialing Martinique from overseas dial + 596 596 + 6 digits, unlessit is a mobile phone, in which case it is + 596 696 + 6 digits In Marin Marinathere is a lovely lady named Anne Vandromme, who used to work on large yachtsand who has been employed by the marina to ensure that professional yachts have everything they need. She is adept at getting goodtechnicians in a hurry, and will act as an aid to the crew to make sure theyfind what they need. Anne is also a useful contact for those who have a problemspeaking French, as she lived in the states for a few years and speaks excellentEnglish. This service is for those using the marina and when this book went topress there was no extra charge for it, despite it being a fully professionalservice. Marin Yacht Harbor, (SAEPP), (0696) 82 35 09, (0596) 74 83 83, F:(0596) 74 92 20, VHF:09, info@portmarin.com

Three taxi drivers work with the professional yachts in St.Lucia. They can arrange for customs to come to the yacht for clearance, clearparts, arrange fuel, provisions, and anything else.

Ben Saltibus in Soufriere has been at it the longest. Heworks quite closely with Sam Taxi Service in St. Vincent and Henry Safari Toursin Grenada.

Two other taxis in Rodney Bay Marina will also fill the samerole; C] Taxi Service and Intellect Taxi. You will be in good hands with any of them.

Ben's Taxi Service (758) 459-5457, F:(758) 459-5719, Cell: (758) 484-0708, saltibus@slucia.cpm CJ Taxi, (758) 584-3530, (758) 450-5981/458-4283, Fax: (758) 452-0185,VHP: 16 Intellect Taxi (758) 458-0265/384-3016, F: (758) 452-0185, VHF:16

Sam of Sam Taxi Tours is an official ship agent and workswith large yachts and some cruise ships. He has sub-agencies in Bequia and UnionIsland. He can clear your yacht in or out from most anchorages and handle allother needs. He has a good office up on a hill where he and his team keep an eyeon arriving yachts. Sam Taxi Tours, (784) 456-4338, F: (784) 456-4233, Cell: (784) 528-2240VHF:68/16, sam-taxi-tours ©caribsurf.com. In Bequia: RMS, (784) 458-3556, VHF:68/16. rms@caribsurf.com In Union: (784) 456-4338, eel: (784) 528-2240. sam-taxi-tours @caribsurf.com. Also in Union, Erika's Marine Services(784) 458-8335, VHP: 68, info®erikamarine.com

Grenada makes the strongest showing with no less than threesuper yacht agents. Any of them will handle anything you need, from checking inthrough customs to finding dock space, provisioning, and dealing with problems,and they will visit all Grenada's ports.

Dennis Henry of Henry Safari Tours has been at it the longestand he is professional, imaginative, and reliable, with a good back-up team. Heowns two laundries and a large fleet of taxis and rather likes to be challengedon the odd occasion when he is thrown a problem he has not had to cope withbefore. Henry's Safari Tours, (473) 444-5313, F: (473) 444-4460,safari@caribsurf.com, VHF:68

Alstin and Margaret Deroche run Oufitters International, conveniently located in thelagoon. They are an experienced superyacht team, and have a parts sourcingbusiness and a professional maintenance team for dealing with technicalproblems. Outfitter's International, (473) 440-7949, (473) 440-6680, VHF:16, footloos@caribsurf.com Roger and Claire run Spronk Ltd, acompany based in True Blue. In addition to helping superyachts, they own both agourmet store and a wholesale provisioning business, which handles aconsiderable quantity of the island's seafood. Their base is at theirrestaurant, Bananas, in True Blue.

Roger is currently building a marina geared for large yachts in Clarkes CourtBay, which has deep access. Spronk Limited, (473) 407-3688, clairebudhlall@yahoo.com

In Martinique, large yachts can fuel and dock in Le Ponton inAnse Mitan or Marin Marina in Marin.

Le Ponton (0596) 66 17 30, VHF:68 Marin Yacht Harbor, (SAEPP), (0596) 74 83 83, F-. (0596) 74 92 20, VHF:09,info@portmarin.com In St. Lucia, Rodney Bay Marina has dutyfree fueling, but check out the current depth into the lagoon. If you arestaying in the marina, Cuthbert Didier, the manager, will take care ofeverything you need.

Other fueling options include St. Lucia Yacht Services inVigie and Cool Breeze fuel station by the main town dock in Soufriere. Orcontact Ben to arrange tanker truck fueling in the main dock in Castries. CoolBreeze Gas Station, (758) 459-7729, F: 459 5309 St. Lucia Yacht Services (758) 452-5057,VHP: 16 In St. Vincent, call Sam taxi tours. He will usually arrange for a tankertruck alongside the main docks in Kingstown. Sam Taxi Tours, (784) 456-4338, F: (784) 456-4233, VHF:68/16, sam-taxi-tours @caribsurf.com An easy and good fuel dock in the Grenadines is B &C Fuels in Petit Martinique. B&C Fuels, (473) 443-9110, Fax: (473) 443-9075, golfsierra@hotmail.com You can also arrange duty free fueling onthe main dock in Tyrrel Bay throughBullens in Hillsborough.

Bullen's, (473) 443-7468/7469, Fax: (473) 443 8194 vbs@caribsurf.com InGrenada you can arrange duty free fuel at the Grenada Yacht Club in St.George's. They have had boats about 160 feet long on their dock, but watch thecontrolling depth, which is about 16 feet in the channel. GrenadaYacht Club, (473) 440-3050, F:(473) 440-6826, VHF:16, gyc@caribsurf.com

"It's fantastic. I could breathe underwater just like afish, and fish swam up and looked at me. What an incredible feeling."

"It's the greatest sensation I've ever felt. When weswam back with the current it was just like gliding through a beautifulgarden!"

These are typical comments from first-time divers who findthat diving is the most exciting thing they have ever done. No wonder ~ it isthe closest most of us will ever come to visiting a strange planet. Not onlythat, under water we are weightless and seem to fly. Like birds, we can soar,hover, and dive down to see anything of interest.

The underwater world is full of wonders ~ tall, soft waving"plants" that are really colonies of tiny animals, sponges that looklike ancient urns, in colors ranging from yellow to a psychedelic luminous blue.Huge schools offish swim by, unconcerned about our presence. Little squids moveby jet propulsion, turtles and gentle giant rays glide with elegant ease.

Yet many people are put off diving because they are under theimpression it is complicated and difficult. Nothing could be farther from thetruth. With modern equipment, diving is very simple and with one of the popular"resort courses" you can be diving in half a day. In fact, the problemmost divers have is to avoid boring their non-diving friends to distraction withtales of undersea adventure. The minimum age for most courses is 10.

Experienced divers will want to bring their own masks, fins,and regulators. A really good comfortable B.C. (buoyancy compensator) is worthbringing, too. As for the rest, forget it. There is no point in humping tanksand weight belts. Far better to rent them here. Those without any equipmentdon't need to worry. The dive shops will supply everything and it is usuallyexcellent up-to-date gear. In many parts of the world you have to wear a protective wet suit against the cold, butin the Windwards the water is warm enough that for most of us this isn'tnecessary.

Anyone who just wants to give diving a go can do so veryquickly with a 'resort course.' It will take one whole morning or afternoon.First you get a one-hour talk that tells you in simple language what diving isall about. Then you try out the equipment in shallow water and, lastly, you gofor your first dive. A resort course only qualifies you to dive under the closesupervision of an instructor at the same dive shop.

Wherever you take a resort course, the instructors willchoose a site that is easy but interesting enough to attract aficionados. Atypical example is Devil's Table in Bequia. The rocks and coral start at 12 feetand slope down to about 35 feet deep. You enter the water and feel a bitnervous, but you breathe out and gently sink. Soon your attention turnsoutwards. Large pillar corals rise from among the rocks. They look fuzzy, but ifyou brush them ever so lightly with your hand, the tentacles withdraw, leavingthem looking like rocks. You stop to examine some pretty shells clinging to awaving sea fan and to your surprise a tiny damsel fish shoots up and tries tochase you away. He's protecting his patch, and you don't scare him; it's thenyou learn that you can even laugh through your regulator. There is a great dealmore to see: brightly colored parrotfish and angelfish, moray eels staring fromtheir holes, strange looking arrow crabs, and brightly banded coral shrimp. Youenjoyed it? Good! Time to go to the next level.

If you've ever thought about getting certified, or if you trya dive and like it, then it makes sense to get certified on your holiday. If youget certified at home, chances are that it will be in a swimming pool, withnothing more interesting to look at than tiled walls. Your open water dives arelikely to be in some frigid grey lake. Furthermore, you will probably have tobuy or rent equipment that is normally included in the course price down island.In the Caribbean, you can train at a cost not much greater than the dives alone.The course includes all equipment, you do everything in open water, the divesare fantastic ~ and you can take home a diving certificate as well as yourmemories. There are several diving associations that have accredited divinginstructors who can train you and give you a certificate. These include Padi and Naui, whichare equally good. The next step from the resort course is the new Padi ScubaDiver. This two-and-a-half day course certifies you to dive with any dive masterat any shop to a depth of 40 feet. It is a good introduction and, being short,it is easy to do on holiday. You can complete your training on your nextholiday, as this course counts as credit towards being an independent open waterdiver.

A full diving course in the islands takes about four or fivedays and includes a couple of hours of instruction each day, followed by a dive,during which you increase your practical skills.

You do not have to stay in one place for the time it takes toget certified. Dive Bequia works closely with Canouan Dive Center so you canstart a course in one of their locations and continue it as you sail through theislands. You can also buy dive packages at these shops, good for both.

Some people, especially those chartering yachts, prefer torent gear and go off diving by themselves. Others prefer to join a dive withprofessional instructors. At least for your first dives, I recommend going withthe dive instructors. They know all the good sites, the hidden caves, thespecial ledge where an-gelfish live, and maybe they know where there is a tameoctopus, seahorse, or frogfish. A good instructor is also a good guide and canoften point out many things that would otherwise be missed, which can addinterest to your dive. Perhaps the most important reason is that many good divesites are in places that can only be reached with a powerful dive boat ratherthan a dinghy. I have worked with many charterers who have tried it both waysand noticed that those who went with dive instructors had a much better timethan those who went on their own.

The diving in the Windwards varies markedly from island toisland and from one dive site to the next, so enthusiasts will want to trydiving in several different spots. We will mention the good sites and theiraccessibility in the text under each anchorage section. Dive shops are listed inour directory.

Look for easy-to-visit dive and snorkel sites on our sketchcharts. They are marked by flags.

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